On Tuesday night, the Italian house presented the cruise collection in the gardens of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, in Lisbon, featuring chic heroines with curved lines and a proud sexy look.
A country where even black is the color and where saudade fado – this Portuguese blues – gives you a sense of sweet imagination and wonder can only inspire. In any case, this is what Ian Griffiths, the wise and talented English creative director Max Mara, who has managed for thirty years for the Italian brand, said to himself.
For his 2023 cruise, so he chose to pack his bags in Lisbon. “When I’m looking for locations for our cruise shows, I always think of a destination that everyone has ideas about not having to go there. If you say Lisbon, an image comes to mind. .It is a city full of romanticism, charm, character where the new and the old blend harmoniously, where heritage and tradition join the shoulders of modernity and creativity.And he has a lot to say.I am particularly inspired by one. woman, a poet, politician and intellectual, who for me represents the heart, soul, love and spirit of this great capital.Her name is Natália Correia.
Lisbon culture and fado stories
Starting point of the collection: Thus, Natália Correia, an important figure in 20th century Portuguese literature and a tireless activist against fascism in her country. In a pop art painting by Nikias Skapinakis Ian Griffiths discovers the appearance of this remarkable woman: she is represented there with two other women sitting at her feet, the novelist Fernanda Botelho and the pianist Maria- João Pires. “I read everything I could about Natália, Ian Griffiths explained. Her intelligence, her particular vision of erotic liberal femininity and her cheerful spirit were the qualities that most attracted me to her. A strong women of Lisbon culture like Amália Rodrigues, the legendary Portuguese fado whose long black pleated taffeta dress, with a deliberately dramatic and strong romantic feel, is also on Ian Griffiths ’moodboard.
Another muse in the collection that unites the history of the country today: the very beautiful Carminho, representative of the young generation of fado singers, a real star of Spain and Portugal.
Claire Danes in the front row
Tuesday, 8 pm, visitors settled in the tropical garden of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, a museum of brutalist architecture with a unique collection of works of art and paintings spanning four millennia, from statues of ancient Egypt to paintings of Renoir or Manet.
In the front row, stars (Claire Danes), artists from the series Ashley Park, Mindy in Emily in Paris), Portuguese personalities and students from the Faculty of Architecture at the University of Lisbon where Max Mara has established a creative partnership.
Chic and sensual
The first passage – a girl wearing black fishnet stockings and a playsuit embroidered with rhinestone black flowers, revealing her shaped legs under a long coat. there is a raised hood that immediately announces the color. Natália Correia’s enthusiasm and sensuality are also translated here into a pure modernity. Her wardrobe in 2023? Pencil skirts are associated with shirts with puffed sleeves or very sensual and low-cut mesh cropped tops. But also long pleated dresses that left the shoulders bare and high waist white pants worn with bustier tops.
This is Max Mara’s declaration of love for Lisbon
Carminho, whose fado resonated on the podium, also wore a little black dress that followed the lines of her body. Tall cashmere coats or the brand’s iconic Teddy Bear warm up the bare legs and shoulders of these elegant and fiery heroes.
The colors of love
At night, they come out wearing long, belted, folded taffeta dresses whose intense monochrome colors-purple, ultramarine blue, bottle green, orange-red, saffron yellow-shine brightly. green surrounding the Gulbenkian Museum.
The collection is also inspired bylenses of lovers», These love handkerchiefs in which young Portuguese women used to sew hearts, flowers and colorful doves in a frivolous and sophisticated style. The small poems are intended for their bridegroom whose spirit Max Mara is transcribed in prints and crystal brooches adorning the dresses but also in panels applied to the front of the white T-shirt whose embroidery is done by in the hands of local artisans.
“This is the declaration of Max Mara’s love for Lisbon,” concludes Ian Griffiths who, during this cruise, developed several projects in the country, including funding the restoration of some areas of the Gulbenkian museum.